Contemporary Victorian Hair (Inspired by American Horror Story)

Equipment:

-Tail comb

-Paddle brush

-Curling tongs

-Hair grips

Step by step:

Prep

1. Put the hair into a side parting using your tail comb, making sure there is some lift at the root. 

2. Starting at the front, take two one inch sections on the side the parting is on and three one inch sections of the other side, and curl them all away from the parting. Make each section about the width of the curling tong. 

3. Secure each of these curls with hair grips, as seen below. 

4. Next, curl the section of hair that is just behind the front curls, about the width of three of the curls in front, i.e about three inches wide. Curl this section horizontally, downwards.

5. Then take a section below that of about t six inches wide, split it into two, and curl both sections. 

6. Repeat the last step below this section created above. 

7. Now curl the hair in three inch wide sections the rest of the way down the middle of the head. 

Bird's eye view.

Side view.

8. Curl the rest of the hair at the sides in sections, going downwards, and secure them all with hair grips. These curls are curled towards the face.

Front view.

Back view.

 Up-do (Inspired by Moira O'Hara, the maid)
9. When all the hair has been curled and pinned up, let the last curl cool and then remove all the hair grips from the hair, apart from the five curls on the top/front.
10. Use your paddle brush to lightly brush through the curls to make them more managable.
11. Start twisting the hair up upwards, moving from one side to the other in a horizontal line, until you get the look below.
12. Secure the twisted hair with hair grips. Try to make them as hidden as possible.
13. Use your tail comb to lift the hair being pulled back to give it some more body.
14. Take the hair grips out of the curls at the front of the hair and pull the curls out individually to them push them back into the hair to create a wave against the head, and then pin them in place with hair grips.
15. Layer the curls on top of each other to give more body.

Back view.

Front view.

Side view.

Side view.

I was happy with how the look turned out, however I can see that there are areas I need to work on. I like the positioning of the twisted hair at the back, although I could have brushed the hair out more so that the twisted hair looked neater and smoother. I could have also used my tail comb to give the back more body by lifting the hair. I am happy with the positioning of the parting and the height of the curls, however I think I should have brought the curl slightly further forward on the left side so that the curl didn't sit back as much. I really like how the curls are positioned on the left side because there is a lot of volume and it looks very textured. If I did it again, I would have layered the curls on the right side to get the same effect, as I think the right side looks too blocky and heavy, with not much pattern to it.  

Down-do

9. Use a paddle brush to brush out the curls, using a over and under motion to get big, smooth curls to form. 

10. Push the front sections, on both sides of the parting, back so that the hair goes back and then curls back on itself, giving a very glamorous look. 

11. Play around with how the hair falls until you get it how you want it, e.g sweep the top sections down and forwards, and help clump sections together that curl the same direction. 

12. Back comb the roots if any extra volume is desired. 

13. Add a bit of wax or shine spray to your fingers and smooth it over the ends to give a more polished finish. 

I am happy with how the hair either side of the parting is smoothed back and then curled back on itself because it adds a sense of glamour to the look. I like how the fringe is swept down and then curls at the end to mix in with the rest of the curls because it looks very sleek. To make the look more polished I should have used wax or hairspray to smooth down any fly aways and finish off the ends of the hair. 

 Above shows the result of shaking the head up and down; this made the hair look a lot bigger and more voluminous. I like that you can still see the curls in the hair, but they are just looser and more spread out. This hair style is a lot more messy and crazy looking than the other more glamorous and elegant hair style. These would both be suited to very different characters, even though they are, in fact, very similar in technique.

Dark Eyes and Dark Lips

Equipment:

-Cream base

-Medium flat brush

-Blending brush

-Grey, black and light nude eyeshadows

-Small flat brush

-Mascara

-Disposable mascara wand

-Small angled brush

-Lip colour

Step by step:

Eyes

(Tip: Do both eyes at the same time, just incase you are caught short of time and the model needs to rush off.)

1. Apply a cream base with a flat brush all over the eyelids. 

2. Blend the edges of the cream base into the crease with a fluffy brush.

(Tip: Get the model to keep opening her eyes, as different looks work differently on different eye shapes.)

3. Apply a medium grey shade all over the eye lids, over the cream base.

4. Using a medium flat brush, add some medium matte grey into the crease and blend upwards.

5. Add some black eye shadow into the outer crease with a small flat brush and blend it out with a fluffy brush. 

6. Build up the black until you get the intensity you want. 

7. Take some black eye shadow and apply it along the lower lash line with a small flat brush.

8. Apply a highlight colour to the inner corner and brow bone to brighten those areas. 

(Optional)

9. Get some black eyeliner pencil on the back of your hand and use a small angled brush to apply it along the lash line and to a flick. 

10. Apply some gel eyeliner over the top of the black pencil with an eyeliner brush.

11. Smudge the eyeliner using a small flat brush.

12. Use some oil control lotion to remove any excess eyeshadow or eyeliner with a cotton bud. 

13. Using a small, stiff fan brush, apply some mascara to the eyelashes, making sure to get right down to the roots and curling if needed. 

Lips

14. Line the lips with a sharp lip pencil to get a defined, clean line. 

(Tip: Get the model to open her lips slightly and smile to get a smooth line on the bottom lip.)

15. Use a small lip brush or a small angled brush to apply the lipstick all over the lips.

16. Use some concealer on a small flat brush to clean up around the edges if necessary. 

I am happy with how the look came out. I am pleased with how blended the eyeshadow looks and how even both eyes look. However, looking at the images, I noticed that there was a patch on both eyelids where I didn't put very much product and therefore the skin is showing through. Next time, I will need to make sure I ask my model to close their eyes and double check for this. To make this look more dramatic, I would just have to bring the colours further out and blend as I go along. I really like how the eyelids are brighter and have shimmer because I think it really opens up the eyes and adds dimension. I struggled to get the lips to look exactly how I wanted as I found it difficult to get a very smooth and even line around them. I didn't line the lips with a pencil as I didn't have one on me, so I just used my small angled brush to line them and fill them in. I am happy with how smooth I got the line in the end, but I can obviously see it's not perfect. I will need to practise applying lip colour until I feel confident with the outcomes.

Using Moulds to make Wounds

Equipment:
-Gelatine
-Wound moulds
-Release spray/Vaseline
-Fixer spray
-Microwave
-Pros Aide
-Pros Aide remover
-Witch hazel
-Cotton buds
-Bowl
-Powder brush
-Loose translucent powder
-Small angled brush
-Supra colour palette
-Blood paste
-Fake blood

Step by step:
1. Clean the moulds fully and make sure they are dry.
2. Apply a thin layer of vaseline or release spray onto the mould.
3. Heat up the gelatine and put it into the moulds, making sure they don't overlap each other and that the top of flat.
4. Once the mould has fully set, take it out of the mould and cut it down to the right size.
5. Apply some pros aide, with a cotton bud, to both the wound and the skin, as it is a contact adhesive.
6. Wait until the pros aide drys and goes clear.
7. Press the wound onto the skin and hold firmly to secure it.
8. Apply more pros aide around the edges if necessary.
9. Put some witch hazel in a bowl and, using a cotton bud, rub the witch hazel backwards and forwards along the edges of the wound to melt away the edges and make them look more seamless.
10. Powder well over the top of the wound with some translucent powder and a powder brush.
11. Use a small angled brush and your fingers to apply the supra colour on the wound to suit what look you are trying to achieve.
12. Add some blood paste and fake blood to the wound to make it look more freshly cut.

Wound before any colouring added.

I was excited to experiment with using moulds because it was completely new to me; however I am not particularly happy with how it came out. I was fine with applying the mould onto the skin, but when I came to rubbing the edges with witch hazel and a cotton bud, I found that the gelatine came away from the skin and that it didn't 'melt' the product away very easily. I therefore found that the edges looked very obvious and fake looking. I think if I had loads of time to wear the gelatine away it would have worked better as I think it was working, but just very slowly. I was happy with the colouring, however even after I had coloured the would, the edges still looked very obvious. I like how the blood paste and fake blood gave the wound more depth and how the redness of the wound extended to the surrounding skin, as I think it made the wound look more realistic. If I choose to use this method in either of my character designs, I will have to practise to get it how I wanted it. 

Miss Havisham: Continuity Assessment

Equipment:

Make-up
-Foundation palette
-Contour palette
-Supra colour palette
-Loose translucent powder
-Duo lash glue
-Liquid latex
-White skin base
-Cape
-Flour and water
-Make-up wipes
-Bowl x2
-Buffing brush
-Contour brush
-Stippling brush
-Powder brush
-Spatular
-Hair clips
-Paint brush
-Small flat brush x2
-Small angled brush
-Disposable mascara wand

Hair
-Dry shampoo
-Hair pins
-Hair elastics
-Wig
-Wig cap
-Hair grips

Styling
-Wedding dress
-Necklace
-Veil

Step by step:
1. I applied a mixture of the white skin base and foundation colours Alabaster, FS38 and G177, to make her skin look slightly more pale than it was naturally. I did this with a Real Techniques bussing brush to buff it into the skin, taking it down to the neck. 
2. To achieve the dark circles, I took some purple from the supra colour palette on a small angled brush on her eyelids and on the inner half of her eye bags. I blended the colour in with my finger.
3. I then made a brown colour and mixed it in with some green and added it to the inner corner and a tiny bit in the middle of the eye bag with the same small angled brush. I blended the colour in with my finger.
4. I added a tiny bit of yellow on the outer half of the eye bags and on the inner corner with my finger.

5. I then added some red supra colour along her lash line with a small flat brush.

6. I powdered all around the eyes to make it look more skin-like and matte.

7. I then powdered the rest of the face and neck with a powder brush and translucent powder. 

8. I mixed some flour and water together in a bowl to a thin consistency. 

9. Using a spatula, I smoothed the mixture onto the areas where I wanted dry skin. I made sure that I blended out the edges to make it look more seamless and natural. 

10. I applied some liquid latex with a paint brush to the area I wanted the wart to be and then I added a very small amount of scrunched up tissue on top and secured the tissue by dabbing more liquid latex on top. Through out the makeup look, I kept going back to the wart and adding more latex to give it the height and texture I wanted.

11. I dabbed some red supra colour onto the lips and just outside the lip line to give a sore effect.

12. I then added some flour mixture on top, making sure that the edges were very smooth and blended.

13. Using my contour brush, I took some of the grey toned bronzer in my contour palette and contoured under the cheek bones, on the temples and under the chin. 

14. To emphasise the contour I went over it with some grey eyeshadow and the same brush.

15. I mixed some yellow and white supra colour together to make an off white colour. I then brushed this through the eyebrows with a disposable mascara wand. 

  

16. Using a stippling brush, I lightly dabbed some red supra colour on top of some of the dry patches around the face. 

17. Using a small flat brush, I added some red supra colour around the nostrils to make them looks sore. 

18. I added some duo lash glue to two patches on the bottom lip and let them dry. 

19. After the glue was dry I picked at some side of the glue, until I had made a cut effect, with one side lifted up.

20. Using a small flat brush, I put some red supra colour underneath the flaps to make them look like they were bleeding.

21. I next took the cape off and used the same mixture of white skin base and foundations to buff into the chest and any areas I thought would be shown in the final image. I used a buffing brush to do this.

22. I then used a big powder brush and some translucent powder to powder all over the chest, neck and shoulders.

23. I contoured the model's collar bones with some grey eye shadow and the contour brush.

24. I dabbed some red supra colour onto the two patches that I wanted there to be dry skin. I did this with my fingers.

25. I then added some flour mixture over the top with a spatular, making sure that the edges were blended. 

26. I used a small flat brush to add some red supra colour on the skin around the wart to make it look sore.

27. Then I added some purple/brown on the edges of the wart to add some dimension and to make it a realistic colour. 

28. I put on the wig cap to prep the hair for the wig. I made sure that all the hairs round the edges were tucked away. 

(Tip: Use some hair pins to secure the wig cap to the hair and make sure it is as close to the natural hair line as possible. Also make sure to keep the ears outside the wig cap.)

29. I then lined the wig up at the front of the head, asked my model to hold the front of the wig, and then pulled it to the back to cover the whole head. 

(Tip: Use some hair grips to secure the wig to the hair and wig cap by looping the grip under.)

30. Make sure the wig is in a rough centre parting and section off the two side sections and bring them forwards.

31. Take the rest of the hair up into a mid/high ponytail.

32. Plait the ponytail loosely and then twist it up into a bun. 

33. Pull some of the hairs out to give it a more messy look.

34. Use white supra colour on a disposable mascara wand to colour any hair that is showing around her neck.

35. Position the veil around the head and under the bun.

Final Images

The skin colour is very pale and slightly pink toned in both and the contour on the chest is almost identical.  I am happy with the eyebrow colouring and shape; they look slightly darker in the continuity image, but I think this is because the lighting was darker. I am happy with the colour intensity and colour positioning around the eyes as I think it looks very similar to the previous look, however I think the red colour underneath the eyes was more intensified in the original image. I am really happy with how similar the dry skin looks and how the amount of red in the dry skin matches almost perfectly! I used the same wart in both these images as I knew if would be difficult to make another wart that was exactly the same; however because I added more liquid latex underneath the wart, it looks like it is slightly bigger and more elevated in the continuity image. I also think I coloured it slightly darker in the continuity image, but again that may be due to the darker lighting. I am so happy with the placement of the cuts in the lip as I think they are very similar to the original; however the cuts don't look like they stand out as much because the lips are slightly darker. To resolve this I should have either added more red to the cuts, or preferably made the lips slightly paler to match the original colouring. Unfortunately you are unable to see the rash on the side of her neck on the continuity images because of the lighting, but you are able to see that the colouring and positing is very similar for the rash on the chest in both. To make it perfect, I would have brought the rash slightly further down and to the left to match up perfectly with the original.

I noticed that the necklace was slightly wonky in the original image so I tried to replicate that in my continuity image; however I think I over did it slightly, as the necklace looks a lot more crooked in the second image. I am so happy with how the dress came out in both images because I think it looks almost identical in both images!

I think the fringe looks almost identical, especially the hair coming down to the left, as all the hair is going in the same direction and even the body of the hair on the left looks the same, with all the flicks and curls in the right places. I think that the parting looks slightly tidier in the original image, with the hair pushed slightly further apart and with less flyways. The right side of the fringe looks like it has been pulled further forwards in the continuity image because the hair is coming further down the face; however the placement of the hair, other than that, looks very similar. I think the hair running down the right side look almost identical, however the hair on the left looks longer in the continuity image and the flicks aren't quite going in the same direction. The flowers on the head look very similar in both sets of images, with all the flowers going in the same direction and with them placed on the same part of the head. 

I think the images of the hair from the back look like they could have been taken on the same day, but just with different lighting. The flowers and leaves are all placed almost exactly like in the original image; however the leaf on the right looks like it was pulled down slightly more in the original. The hair in the bun looks like it was placed in the same place, looking at the outline of it; however, because of the lighting, the hair placement looks more exaggerated in the continuity image. The rip in the veil is in almost exactly the same place and the necklace at the back was positioned, what looks like. perfectly. I did the zip up to the same place as in the original photo, just to finish the continuity look off. 

The fringe and long hair, from the side view images, look almost exactly the same, with all the curls and flicks and the length of the hair looking the same. The flowers, from the side view, look like they are in different positions; however the overall look of the flower crown looks roughly the same. The buns look like they are positioned at the same height, with the flower crown going underneath. The veil looks slightly fuller in the continuity image as there is less negative space between the veil and neck; however this could be easily resolved if this look were to be used in a film or TV set. 

Estella: Step by Step

Make-Up

Equipment:

-Foundation palette

-White skin base

-Buffing brush

-Spatulas

-Small fluffy brush (concealer)

-Fluffy brush

-Loose translucent powder

-Blush brush

-Blush palette

-Lip colour palette

-Small angled brush

-Eye shadow primer

-Medium fluffy brush

-Light brown eye shadow

-Small fluffy brush (eye shadow)

-Disposable mascara wand

Step by step:

1. I applied a mixture of the white skin base and foundation colours Alabaster, FS38 and G177, to make her skin look slightly more pale than it was naturally. I did this with a Real Techniques buffing brush to buff it into the skin, down to the neck and on her chest.

2. I took some foundation under her eyes with a small fluffy brush to cover any dark circles. 

3. Using a big fluffy brush, I applied some loose translucent powder all over her face and down her neck. 

4. I applied some light pink blush to her cheeks with a blush brush, focusing on the apples.

5. I mixed lip shades LC002 and LC142 to make a natural light pink colour and I applied it to the lips with a small angled brush.

6. I put some eyeshadow primer on her eyelids and bended it in with my fingers. 

7. I powdered over the primer with a fluffy brush and some translucent powder. 

8. I then added a small amount of light brown eyeshadow with a small fluffy brush into the crease and on the lid to give her eyes some definition. 

9. I brushed through the eyebrows with a clean disposable mascara wand. 

Final Make-up look.

Hair

Equipment:

-Tail comb

-Hair clips

-Hair elastics

-Hair pins

-Curling wand

-Blur fabric roses

Step by step:

1. Draw a line with the tail comb from the front of the ear to the front of the other ear and this is your front section. 

2. Put in a middle parting using your tail comb in the front section and then clip the two front sections out of the way for now, using hair clips.

3. Take another section, about an inch in depth, following the straight line of the front section, put a middle parting in it and then clip both sections up. 

4. Take a section in a semi-cirlcle shape from behind the front sections and put it in a ponytail with an elastic. This sections starts from about 3 inches up on each side.

5. Split the ponytail into four and loop each section under to make a bun shape, securing them with hair pins.

6. Curl the rest of the hair in small sections to make very defined curls. 

7. The big section of curled hair needs to be split into four, roughly equal, sections, so keep this in mind when you are taking each section.

8. Take the first section, split it roughly in half and twist both sides upwards from the root.
9. Secure both sides together and to the head, just under the bun with hair pins, making sure the sides are even.

10. Take another section below this, twist both halves and pin them in the middle of the head with hair pins. Make sure that this section seamlessly joins with the section above and that all the body is running down the centre of the back of the head and that the sides are flat.
11. Repeat these steps with the section below.

12. With the bottom section, do the same steps, but only pin up the sides of the section and leave the middle part hanging down to give the look some length.

13. Pin the middle section of curls up, but position them lower down so that it adds some length to the look.
13. Curl the small section behind the front sections with your curling wand.

14. Twist each of these curls back into the bun to hide the obvious bun shape. 

15. Curl the two front sections with your curling wand, making sure to curl them in small sections. Curl some of them forwards and some back to give add more texture.

16. Split the two halves into three sections and twist each section backwards towards the bun. On each side the curls need to be twisting away from the centre.

17. Secure these twists into the bun with some hair pins, making sure that some of the end curls are still loose.

  

 

18. I secured some blue fabric roses onto some hair pins with some thread and pinned them along the front of the hair, where the twists had been pinned into the bun.

Final Look

I am really pleased with how the whole look turned out. I kept the makeup look very natural and historically accurate, and I am really happy with how it came out. I am happy with how evenly the base and concealer was applied and how natural the blush looks and how it is just focused on the apples of the cheeks. I blended the foundation all over the model's chest and neck and shoulders so that she was all one colour, however I can still see that her chest is the slightest bit darker than her face. I think this was because she was naturally a lot more tanned on her chest and so I would have needed to use a lighter foundation than I used on the face over the top to counteract this. However I think most people are slightly more tanned on their chest anyway so I don't see this as a big problem. I noticed that a couple of her spots were showing at the back which I would have liked to cover; I will remember this for my future shoots. I really like the lip colour here as I think it looks like she might not be wearing anything, which is the look the victorian women mostly went for. 

I am really happy with the hair and how the different tones and highlights in her hair made the hair look more textured. The bun at the top was a different colour to the rest of the curls so I made sure it is neatly done as it would stand out. I really like how the hair is twisted at the front into the bun as it adds more textured and a pretty detail to the look, however I think I could have manipulated the hair slightly so that not as much of her scalp was showing at the sides as I think it looks unflattering and messy. I think the blue flowers in her hair look really pretty and girly and I think they stand out just enough because of the difference in colour. I had hoped that the curls at the back would have been longer because the victorian women didn't cut there hair so it would have been a lot longer, but I loosened the curled at the back slightly more than in my practises so that the hair appeared longer.