Dirt, Dry Skin and Rashes

Equipment:
-Supra colour palette
-Foundation palette
-Foundation brush
-Stipple brush
-Small detail brush
-Flat brush
-Duo lash glue
-Black stipple sponge
-Brown hair spray
-Grey hair spray
-Isophrenol alcohol

Base Make-up

Step by Step:
1. Mix in a bit of white and yellow supra colour with your foundation colour.
2. Apply the foundation to the face using a foundation brush and then buff in with a stippling brush.
3. Ask the model to look down, then add some purple, grey and blue supra colour to make it look like eye bags.

4. Apply a brown/grey mix of supra colour under the cheek bones, on the temples and under the chin.
5. Cover the lips with the base colour.

Dry Skin

6. Tap on a thick layer of Duo lash glue to the lips and on the skin on the edges and wait for it to dry clear.

7. After the glue is dry, start to pick and pull at the glue so that it starts to peal and look rough. 

8. Add some red supra colour to the inner lip and in any holes of the glue to make it look sore and bloody.

9. Stipple on some blue/purple colour around the red patches and dry skin to make it look like its scabbing or bruised.

10. The same technique can be used on other parts of the face, for example, the cheek area as shown below.

Dirt

11. Spray on a can of brown hair spray to the skin to look like dirt.

12. Spray on some grey hair spray to make it look like more dirt and dust.

Rash

13. Mix some red supra colour with some isophrenol alcohol to make a watery liquid.
14. Using a stiff brush, flick the mixture onto the face to look like a sore, red rash.

I am really happy with the dark circles around the eyes because I think they look realistic, however to improve them, I would add more purple. I really like the positioning of the contouring as I think it really hollows out the face, however to improve it, I would use a more grey colour instead of the unnatural looking purple. I really like the dry skin on the inner part of her lips as I think it looks natural, however I found it difficult to make it look like dry skin on the rest of the face. I will add a thicker layer of the glue to the skin to make it easier to manipulate. I also found that the glue left a yellow tint to the skin which I don't like, so I will add foundation over it next time to make it blend in with the skin more seamlessly. I really don't like how the dirt turned out. I think it looks very unnatural and obviously sprayed on. If I were to do this again, I would smudge out some of the hair spray and use a lighter hand. I am quite happy with the rash, however I think it would have looked more realistic if there was some texture to the skin.

Burns

Equipment:
-Block Gelatine
-Supra colour palette
-Bowl
-Microwave
-Spatula
-Hair dryer with cool setting
-Glycerin
-Sponge
-Black stipple sponge
-Small detail brush
-Big, stiff brush

Step by step:
1. Put the block of gelatine in a bowl and put it in the microwave, checking it every 10 seconds, and stirring.
2. Once the gelatine is melted, test how hot it is on the back of your hand, and then dab it where you want it on the skin with a spatula. Work relatively quickly, as it cools down quite quickly.
3. If you are unhappy with an edge or section, you can remove and smooth it with warm water and a cotton bud.
4. Powder over the top of the set gelatine with a powder puff and loose translucent powder.
5. Using a small brush, dab some supra colour (red, purples, yellows) the burn and blend it with your fingers. Add darker colours where you want to add depth.
6. Dab some more red with your fingers around the edges and on the burn to make it look sore and blistered.
7. Using a sponge, dab some foundation that matches the skin lightly over the burn and over the edges to blend the burn into the skin.
8. Using a big, stiff brush or a black stipple sponge, dab some more red over the burn and blend with fingers.

9. Add some blood to the burn in any holes or dents.

10. Add some pus to any areas you think may be infected.

11. Using a black stipple sponge, add some glycerin over the top of the whole burn to make it look shiny and wet. Add some to the edges to blend them with the skin.

You can peel the gelatine off and reapply at a later date it required.

I have never used these products before so I am really happy with how my burn turned out. I found that the gelatine hardened really quickly so some of my edges are not as smooth as I'd like; I will therefore work more quickly and make an effort to really focus on the edges to give them a smooth transition onto the skin. If I did this again, I wouldn't add so much black to the burn because I think it looks unnatural and too harsh; instead I would maybe use a darker red colour to add depth. I think that the glycerin really pulled the whole look together as it gave it a wetter look. 

Estella's Hair

Equipment:

-Tail comb

-Hair clips

-Hair elastics

-Hair pins

-Curling wand

-Blur fabric roses

Step by step:

1. Draw a line with the tail comb from the front of the ear to the front of the other ear and this is your front section. 

2. Put in a middle parting using your tail comb in the front section and then clip the two front sections out of the way for now, using hair clips.

3. Take another section, about an inch in depth, following the straight line of the front section, put a middle parting in it and then clip both sections up. 

4. Take a section in a semi-cirlcle shape from behind the front sections and put it in a ponytail with an elastic. This sections starts from about 3 inches up on each side.

5. Split the ponytail into four and loop each section under to make a bun shape, securing them with hair pins.

6. Curl the rest of the hair in small sections to make very defined curls. 

7. The big section of curled hair needs to be split into four, roughly equal, sections, so keep this in mind when you are taking each section.

8. Take the first section, split it roughly in half and twist both sides upwards from the root.
9. Secure both sides together and to the head, just under the bun with hair pins, making sure the sides are even.

10. Take another section below this, twist both halves and pin them in the middle of the head with hair pins. Make sure that this section seamlessly joins with the section above and that all the body is running down the centre of the back of the head and that the sides are flat.
11. Repeat these steps with the section below.

12. With the bottom section, do the same steps, but only pin up the sides of the section and leave the middle part hanging down to give the look some length.

13. Pin the middle section of curls up, but position them lower down so that it adds some length to the look.
13. Curl the small section behind the front sections with your curling wand.

14. Twist each of these curls back into the bun to hide the obvious bun shape. 

15. Curl the two front sections with your curling wand, making sure to curl them in small sections. Curl some of them forwards and some back to give add more texture.

16. Split the two halves into three sections and twist each section backwards towards the bun. On each side the curls need to be twisting away from the centre.

17. Secure these twists into the bun with some hair pins, making sure that some of the end curls are still loose.

 

18. I secured some blue fabric roses onto some hair pins with some thread and pinned them along the front of the hair, where the twists had been pinned into the bun.

I am so happy with how the hair turned out. I think the twists in the hair into the back add a fun detail and add some body to the hair. I knew that the bun at the back would be a different colour to the surrounding curls so I made sure that the bun was neat and I it look really effective. I really like that there is a focus point of the curls. I love that the curls are a different colour to the front of the hair because it adds a lot of texture and different tones to the hair style. I need to make sure that I curl the hair right to the ends so that the curls are continuous. I am really happy with how the dark blue fabric roses and the lighter hair contrast against each other as it makes them really stand out.

Miss Havisham's Hair

Equipment:
-Dry shampoo
-Hair pins
-Hair elastics
-Wig
-Wig cap
-Hair grips
-Veil

Step by step:
1. I put on the wig cap to prep the hair for the wig. I made sure that all the hairs round the edges were tucked away. 

(Tip: Use some hair pins to secure the wig cap to the hair and make sure it is as close to the natural hair line as possible. Also make sure to keep the ears outside the wig cap.)

2. I then lined the wig up at the front of the head, asked my model to hold the front of the wig, and then pulled it to the back to cover the whole head. 

(Tip: Use some hair grips to secure the wig to the hair and wig cap by looping the grip under.)

3. Make sure the wig is in a rough centre parting and section off the two side sections and bring them forwards.

4. Take the rest of the hair up into a mid/high ponytail.

5. Plait the ponytail loosely and then twist it up into a bun. 

6. Pull some of the hairs out to give it a more messy look.

7. Use white supra colour on a disposable mascara wand to colour any hair that is showing around her neck.

8. Position the veil around the head and under the bun.

I am really happy with how the hair came out. I was concerned how I was going to make the hair line at the back look natural, but I am really happy with the technique of colouring the natural hairs white around the back and bottom of the rim of the wig as it makes the wig edges look more blended and therefore more natural. I like how the front of the hair looks like it had been curled a long time ago and then fallen out because I think she would have curled the front sections very tightly on her wedding day, but then not touched them up since. I like the shape of the bun and that you can see it above the veil, as I think if the bun was below the veil, the top of the hair would have looked flat and boring. I am so happy with the colouring of the wig because I think it looks very natural. I also love the colouring of the flowers on the veil as the fake dead roses look very realistic. 

Late Victorian Hair

Equipment:
-Tail comb
-Paddle brush
-Hair elastics
-Hair grips
-Hair curlers
-Dry shampoo
-Desired decoration

Step by step:
1. Brush the hair back and create a centre parting with the tail comb.
2. Draw a line with the tail comb from ear to ear and take those front two sections and secure them separately with elastic bands.
3. Takek a U shaped section, as shown below, and secure this with a hair elastic in a high ponytail.
4. Curl the hair in the ponytail in small sections.
5. Twist each curl from the pony tail around the bunch to make a pretty bun. Don't make this a perfect 'ballet bun', but just make it look full and curly.

 6. Curl the lower part of the hair in small sections, keeping the tong facing upwards, so that the wand can be pulled out to make ringlets.

8. Pin up some of the curls to the ponytail to add decoration and fullness. Make sure the ends still look curling. Do this to about half of the lower section.

 9. Split each front section in half, so you have four sections along the front of the head.
10. Curl the outer sections in one big curl, going downwards, and pins these curls back to the ponytail.
11. Split the two sections into three and curl each section with the tong facing to the back of the head, so that the curls fall forwards.
12. Comb through each side lightly so that the curls on each side form one big curl on each side.
13. Take each curl back towards the ponytail in a pretty 'swoop' so that there is a wave at the side and some height on top.

14. Take some curls up from the bottom to make the curls all fall in a smooth transition, as shown below.

 Ageing
15. Spray dry shampoo all over the hair to give it a grey, dusty look. You can also use coloured sprays for this or brush through some supra colour.

16. You can also add decoration into your hair look, for example flowers or gems or ribbon. 

I am really happy with my outcome because I think it looks very pretty and feminine and full. When I do a similar look to this hairstyle again, for Estella, I will put the ponytail higher up so that there is more body at the top of the hair. I will also use a smaller curling wand so that the curls are tighter and more like ringlets. I wasn't too keen on the flowers because I think they look too fake and tacky and wouldn't be suitable for an accurate Victorian hair look. I am really happy with how neat the sides look and how even I got the waves and height on top of the hair. 

Black Eye, Cut/Wounds, Scarring, Split Lip and Sweat

Black Eye

Equipment:
-Supra colour palette
-small angled brush

When it came to learning how to create a black eye with makeup, we were told to get up a photo of a real black eye and use that as our inspiration for our own black eye inspiration. The image that I chose is below.

My inspiration image.
http://wearethemarket.com/wp-content/
uploads/2011/10/black-eye-213x300.jpg

The above images show my outcome. I first applied the really dark purple with a small angled brush to the inner corner and under eye crease. I then I added the red colour to make it look sore and then the yellow colour to add some bruising. I blended all the colours out with my fingers to give it a more realistic look. I am really happy with how it came out, however I think I could have added some more red and yellow just above the cheek bone to make it look bruised all round the eye socket. I also think I could have blended out the purple under her eye more to make it look more realistic and not so harsh. 

Cut/Wound

Equipment:

-Plastici wax by Kryolan https://uk.kryolan.com/product/plastici-60-g

-Spatula

-Eyelash glue

-Clenser

-Craft knife

-Pin

-Liquid Latex by Kryolan https://uk.kryolan.com/product/liquid-latex-clear-500-ml

-Cotton bud

-Hair dryer

-Supra colour palette

-Orange stipple sponge

-Fake blood https://uk.kryolan.com/product/fx-blood-50-ml#light

-Blood paste https://uk.kryolan.com/product/blood-paste-iew

-Fake pus https://uk.kryolan.com/product/synthetic-pus-effect

Step by step:

1. Take some plastic wax with a spatula and massage it on the back of your hand.

2. Roll the wax into a sausage shape and add some eyelash glue along one side.

3. After the glue is tacky, apply it on the skin you want to have a cut on it and smooth the edges down with a spatular and your fingers. (Add some cleanser if the product is lifting up.)

4. Once the edges are smooth, cut the wax open with a craft knife or a pin where you want the cut to be.

5. Manipulate the shape and size of the cut with a pin.

6. Shake up some liquid latex and pour some into a bowl.

7. Take some liquid latex on a cotton bud and coat the wound to set it in place.

8. Take a hair dryer, put it on the cool setting, and dry the wound. (When the latex turns clear, you know it's dry.)

This is when you can decorate your cut how you want to!

9. I took some red supra colour and smudged it round the cut with an orange stipple sponge to make the skin look sore and scratched.

10. I then mixed a purple together and added the purple anywhere I wanted bruising or extra depth.

11. I added yellow supra colour in patches that I thought would have bruised too.

12. I added some blood paste in the cut and at both ends to make it look like there was dried up or thick blood in the cut.

11. I then added some fake blood to make the cut look like it was bleeding. 

12. I finally added some fake puss to make the cut look infected. 

I am really happy with how my cut came out. I think it looks like it could be real and I really like how I have expanded on the makeup by adding some scratches on the knuckles. I love how the pus makes it look really gross and infected. To improve on this, I would make the bump of the cut look more like skin by smoothing it out in a softer gradient. I would also look at images of bruising and try to make the bruising round the cut look more realistic. 

Scarring

Equipment:

-Tuplast https://uk.kryolan.com/product/tuplast

-Pin

Step by step:

1. Take some tuplast straight from the tube and create lines with it in the shape of a scar.

2. Pick at it with a pin to make the edges look more ruff.

3. (Optional) You can add some skin coloured base over the top to bland it in with your skin tone. 

This is an image of the demonstration.

Split lip

Equipment:

-Foam protector https://uk.kryolan.com/product/pro-shield-barrier-foam-50-ml

-Non flexible collodiom https://uk.kryolan.com/product/collodion

-Craft knife

-Hair dryer

Step by step:

1. Put foam protector on the area around the lip first.

2. Paint a lot of the collodiom on the area where you want the cut to be.

3. While the liquid is drying, push a craft knife onto the area you want 'cut' and push either side of the skin so it makes a deep indentation.

4. Whilst you are holding the skin together and have taken the craft knife out, dry the collodium with a cool hair dryer.

5. Keep adding layers and using the same technique until the cut is how you want it.

Sweat

Equipment:
-Black stipple sponge
-Glycerin

Step by step:
1. Use a black stipple sponge and stipple the glycerin over the area you want the person to sweat.